Showing posts with label New York. Show all posts
Showing posts with label New York. Show all posts

Monday, 16 March 2009

A tail of four corners

I like to walk. And when I walk I notice things.

So here I am staying in New York in the spring of 2008, and I just walk the streets randomly, and then I find The Perfect Intersection. It's just another place where two streets cross, but this particular crossing produces 4 very different corners.



The Church.
On the first corner stands an old and impressive church building - The Church of the Holy Name. In the 1800's they knew that this was what a church should look like - full of arches and pulling your eye up skywards, it was constructed as an exultation to God. The architecture screams that it is a church building - what else could it be?



The Bank?
Opposite the church is another building that shouts out why it was built. The solid upright stance and pillars show that wealth and stability were the main things on the minds of the people building it. Of course, appearances can be deceptive - although built as a bank, it's now a Pharmacy.



The Pharmacy?
The third corner has a oddly dated look that the previous two - although older - did not. A late 20th century built tower, with a retail outlet at the bottom. A local tells me that the shop was originally a pharmacy, and I can see how that would have fitted in with the architects view of the use of his design. However, in a strange twist to the way buildings are used, it now operates as a bank.

The Red Brick
To me, the red brick apartment block is the architecture that really defines Manhattan, and here we see one, complete with store at street level. And that store was a pizzeria, complete with ATM for those who didn't want to cross the street to the bank

I don't think you could get 4 more diverse looks and feels - and usages! on any street corner, but there it was. And in the background you can see even more styles, showing the real melting pot that is New York, NY.

(Pictures taken 15 April 2008 at the intersection of Amsterdam and 96th, New York.)

Sunday, 15 March 2009

On top of the bus

One of the nicest things to do in a city is to go on an open top bus ride. It’s also the best way to get overheated/cold/sunburned/wet/car fumes/dust in your eyes and whatever else the weather and the city in question can throw at you, but even so it’s a fun thing to do. This is about 3 rides I did in New York city.

I had pre-booked a ticket - there is little point in doing this, but I’d done it anyway - and went to the office of the coach company that was just off Times Square. There are a number of routes and companies, but I’d chosen one company, and paid for a ticket that would let me on and off on the Uptown and Downtown loops, and also on a “night” tour - actually, just about dusk time - but more of that later.

I actually collected my ticket the day I’d already been to Liberty Island, so it was getting late in the day, and I chose to go on the uptown loop, which would go nearer to my Hotel for when I was finished. The tour started off really slowly - New York traffic and road works meant that in the first 20 minutes of the trip we travelled only about six blocks. After a while, however, we got going at a better rate, and the tour guide was doing his job well - a native New Yorker, he told us that like many of his fellows he didn’t have a car, as there was no point in the crowded City - too expensive and easier to get around on the busses and subway.


(Central Park)

Our route took us up the West side of Central Park, and from the top of a bus, the park seems much smaller than when you’re in it - maybe that is just because you’re more aware of the surrounding buildings. Carrying on up Manhattan we come to the Riverside Park, and views of the George Washington Bridge and across the Hudson River to New Jersey - and the expected comments from our guide:)


(Washington Bridge in the distance)

Coming round in a kind of loop at that point, we find ourselves under the approach to the George Washington Bridge, down to the waters edge, and then up on the backbone of the island and suddenly looking down onto the subway tracks - this is disconcerting and difficult for me to work out what direction was are actually going in! The guide tells us about Harlem - his home is nearby where we are driving, and he has good stories to tell of the neighbourhood.


(Under the Washington Bridge)

Suddenly - and it as sudden as crossing an intersection - we are out of the area where normal people live, and into the exclusive and stunningly expensive East Side of Central Park. As we crawl along 5th Avenue we see the building of the Rich and Famous, and lots of Museums, which our Guide tells us are all closed or closing for the evening. Rounding the Park we start to travel back to Times Square, and I forget that I was going to get off nearer my Hotel, so in the end decide to carry on the the end of the route, and visit Times Square itself.


(Times Square)

Times Square is noisy, crowded, and full of advertisements and people. It’s fun just to be there and walk up and down, but it’s also the place I had the worse food item ever - a hot dog from a street vender which was totally tasteless and nothing - but at least I tried it!

I take the Downtown loop earlier the next day - this again means going to Times Square first on the subway and then waiting in the cool but sunny weather for the tour to begin. Our route takes us through the Square and the Theatre district, and along 34th Street past the Empire State building. From ground level it’s difficult to pick out that it is a particularly tall building, and it’s not (in my opinion at any rate) the most attractive building - the Chrysler building - with its sleek art deco look has to be one of my favourite buildings.


(Midtown view)

Carrying on through Greenwich Village and China Town we pass near to Ground Zero, the site of the World Trade Center. As we turn one corner, we see one of the many tributes around here - a fence full of tiles of many nations in memory of those who died.



The route takes us out to Battery Park, and a few glimpses of the Statue of Liberty out in the bay, before turning back up the island and near the start of the Brooklyn and Manhattan bridges. We go past the United Nations building, and I was hoping to be more impressed than I was - well, it IS just a building, after all! Then back to the south of Central park, and so to Times Square once again


(Times Square)

The third bus trip I took was the “night tour”, although as I got it at 6pm, it was more an “evening” tour. This bus had the front of the area covered with a clear roof - which made it less windy, but more difficult to take photos. We set off again through the financial district, the Village and China town, but this time went over the Manhattan Bridge into Brooklyn. It is again very busy with traffic, but as the sun goes down, we get some pretty views of the Manhattan skyline.


(Manhattan from Brooklyn)

As we come back over the Manhattan Bridge the sun is really setting the western sky alight, and the colours are we cross the bridge makes me thankful that I can be here in this amazing city to see it.


(Crossing back into Manhattan at sunset)

Saturday, 14 March 2009

Looking for the stars

Where I’m staying in New York is really near the top end of Central Park, and I’m going to explore it and see what there is to see. So this morning I set out after breakfast (at the Diner again - I’m going to have to watch that!!) and this is another cool, bright spring morning - ideal for a walk in the park!


(Central Park reservoir)

My first view as I cross the road and enter the park is of the reservoir - the first of many pieces of water in the Park and as I stand to take pictures, I’m passed by a jogger - there are also a lot of them in the Park!


(A Castle? In Central Park?)

Walking further along, I see in the distance a castle - yea - I thought that was odd too!!! Actually this is the “Belvedere Tower”, a lookout tower built in the late 1800’s, but now a meteorological observatory, and tourist attraction. The sighting of the tower shows a lot about the island of Manhattan's foundations - the hard bedrock which juts out from the land, and give the island its distinctive geology. Here there is a natural high spot, and the “castle” is built on the top. As I get nearer, I see that there is even a “moat”! Well, in reality, a small area of water called “Turtle Pond”. The sign here says it’s a quiet zone, March to November, 11am to dusk. So, am I to assume that it gets louder after dark? I’m not brave/foolish enough to want to come back in the dark to find out!


(Belvedere Tower)

From the top of the tower you get more neat views over the park - for such an overbuilt city, this part of the island give us space to breath. It’s also a place where it’s nice to bring kids, so my quiet time does not last long!


(Across the park)

From here I walk on further down the park, past a building called the Swedish Cottage Marionette Theatre, and along tree-lined walkways full of joggers. It’s early spring, and some trees are still just bare branches, with others in full blossom. This and the water that is everywhere gives the immediate area a feel of real countryside, but you only have to lift your eyes to see the buildings that surround the Park. As you walk there are constant surprises - round each corner there is a different view, and it makes the place have a unique feel - somewhere between crowded in by the buildings, and having open space and air.


(Spring is sprung)

As well as this wilder side of the park, there are also a lot of formal areas, and as I walk around a lake I come to a formal fountain with sweeping steps leading up to a Terrace - another 19th century piece of ornamentation that the modern New Yorkers take full advantage of. Around here are also a lot of sculptures and then there is sign I just have to follow - Strawberry Fields! This is a memorial to John Lennon - a circle in the ground with “Imagine” shown in the centre, and red and yellow roses arranged around it. People were coming to look and write on the books left there for that purpose, And this is what one said; “JOHN - always said flower power didn’t work START AGAIN!”. Hmmmmmm


(Strawberry Fields)

From here on the west of the park I walk over to the east side, and round another, smaller boating lake, and some more whimsical statuary - a larger-than-life statue of Alice-in-Wonderland, sitting on a huge mushroom, playing with her cat, while the Hatter and the March Hare close by - and any number of real children amusing themselves by climbing all over it! Also here is a bronze of Hans Christian Andersen - and I like this one as he is sitting reading, with a bronze duck looking up quizzically at him!


(Hans Christian Andersen - and duck!)

As we are now over on the east side of the park, we are next to the really expensive apartments, with views of the park. Not to miss any opportunity to make a buck - there are also telescopes set up so that we can look into the expensive apartments! I forgo that experience, but find it interesting that it’s just there and accepted.


(Looking for the stars)

I’ve mentioned the joggers, but on the roads there are also people on bikes, and as I am about to cross over to the Rumsey Playfields, I’m passed by someone on a unicycle - now that is not something you see that much in many other cities! There are a few people playing ball, but mostly the area is not used too much this midweek daytime. I am impressed, though, by what is called the Summer Stage - but looks to all the world like a flying saucer just about to land! Just below this is an area of bark covered ground with small plaques in between the trees. I then see the main sign for this area - it is a memorial “To our valiant brothers who died in the service of our country in World War 1. Knights of Pythias - State of New York”


(A flying saucer?)

The feel of the park changes again as I carry on along a paved, tree lined avenue to another building, and as I approach, I hear what sounds like fair-ground music being played. Now, who would have thought that? It’s a carousel!


(Central Park carousel)

I’m nearing the other end of the park now, and here there is a playground and more of the open rock formations, with people sitting on top of them - now that must be uncomfortable!

I’ve been walking for a long time, and by now I’m really foot weary, so I find a place to buy a cup of coffee, and sit, watch people come and go for a while, and think about the Central Park that I’ve just experienced.


(A formal park)

City parks are all different, but Central Park is lots of different parks all in one, with formal, “wild” and fun areas. There is a lot of open space and water and wild-life, but never do we get to forget we’re in a busy city - even on this mid week early spring day there are a lot of people around. And everywhere you go the New York sky line is a constant companion. I’ve walked the length of the park, but I still feel that there is more to see and do here. But for now I’m walked out, and will just enjoy the sun on my face and the coffee in front of me.

Tuesday, 10 March 2009

Coffee in a can



(Street sign in NY)

It’s Monday morning, and I leave the hotel to join the New Yorkers at breakfast in the Diner. This is getting to be easy already, and I sit at the bar and drink coffee and read the paper as my eggs are cooked. Although I’m not off to work like most of the people here, I will be joining some of them soon on the subway - my very first New York Subway trip.

The first strange thing I find about the subway is how close to the surface it is - it seems you only go a few steps down and you’re on the platform. I struggle a bit with the ticket machine, but only because it’s new to me, and soon get my ticket, and I’m on the platform and waiting for the train along with a mixed group of city dwellers. And I feel strangely at home - yes it’s all different, the trains are different and the people talk in strange accents - but it doesn’t feel at all threatening. In fact, I feel quite at home here in the hustle bustle of the subway. I get the train and actually find a seat as I start the journey down from 86th Street to South Ferry.


(The island in the distance)

Emerging blinking into the bright and windy day at South Ferry, I’m disoriented and walk round for a while looking for the ferry - no, not the Staten Island Ferry, although that looks a nice trip, but the one that will take me to Liberty Island. When I find it I see that there is a long queue but my pre-booked tickets get me to mid way along the line. There is a guy there entertaining the people with one of those metal steel band drums - chatting to the queue and playing snatches of songs appropriate to the people in line. We move slowly, first snaking back and forward along the shoreline, where we get pretty views out over the water, and then inside for security checks and more queuing. One boat leaves as I watch, but another ties up and we’re soon on board. My choice is to stand by the railing on the top deck - a good place to see things, but also probably the coldest place ever to stand!


(A picture perfect day on Liberty Island)

The boat gets steadily more full - there are so many people of all nationalities here - again, many accents! But eventually we are full, and head off - it is blustery out here but sunny, and there are a lot of us on deck cameras in hand. Slowly the island grows bigger and we get to cruse round it, and see the Statue for all sides before landing. It takes quite a few minutes for us all to disembark, but then we are walking towards the monument - it’s real, I’m actually here!


(Manhattan across the bay)

The first thing I do is go to the Visitors Centre to collect an audio tour, and then it is out to commence the tour round the island, hearing about its history and construction. Some of this I’ve known, and some I’ve now forgotten - in advance I always think that these audio tours are a Good Idea, and sometimes they are, but often they either tell you what you can see for yourself, or go into such detail that only the most ardent student would in interested. This tour veers on the side of too little information, but generally is good on guiding me around. I guess I’ve never though about the island itself - but the grounds are neatly trimmed, and there are some statues of the people who made the monument possible. And it is an island in the middle of a bay, so it’s surrounded by sea birds and the actual water lapping on the shore is attractive too. But in the end, the point of coming here is the statue herself. And she really IS impressive close up - I walk around and take photos from every angle - even a close up that works really well.


(Lady Liberty)

When I visit, the viewing gallery way up at the top of the statue is not open, but you can go into the base of the statue and view this, and the museum. However, you need to book in advance, and when I’d tried a month before all the dates were already fully booked. Even so, just walking round the base of Liberty on this cool spring morning makes me feel blessed to be able to be here, and to admit to being a tourist. I walk round twice - take a lot of pictures - and then - well, that’s it really, isn’t it?


(Welcome to America!)

So I get back onto the ferry, which goes on to Ellis Island, and the museum there. This is a picture-book pretty island, with its manicured lawns and trees just coming into bloom, and even the buildings look inviting on this bright day; I’m sure this is a far cry from the impression that the early immigrants had of the place.

(Ellis Island)
This would be a fascinating place to visit for those with relatives who come to the USA via Ellis Island, however, I decide to stay on the boat, rather than explore here. The boat empties and then fills again, and we are off back to Manhattan. This time all eyes are on the skyline - iconic and seen many times on film and TV, yet being actually real against the sparkling blue sky, with the occasional white fluffy cloud making it almost too much - is this real, or is this a film? Just as we approach shore the Staten Island ferry pulls out - just like they planned it for the a shoot.

I’ve been standing all this time on the top deck, so by the time we land I am really cold, and need to just walk for a bit to warm up. It’s now around mid day, and the queue for the ferry, which I had though was long, is now enormous! It must have taken over an hour for the people at the end of the queue to get to the front. As I walk I see a hot-dog stall, and they are advertising Starbucks Coffee - this sounds a good thing to warm me up so I order one - and it’s the first time I get coffee in a can! It comes ready sweetened, which is not something I’d have asked for if I had the choice, but it does at least warm me a little. There are the normal stalls here selling tourist trap stuff - a sun-visor in the shape of the Statue’s pointed crown, and everything you could think of with “I love NY” on it.



(War Memorial and Eagle)

The area round the ferry terminals is not just for waiting - there is also a garden of remembrance for the Second World War. This is a simple but moving monument - a swooping eagle made of black marble, which is guarding eight obelisks maybe 10 feet tall, each covered with the names of those who lost their lives in the Atlantic.


(Korean War memorial)

A bit further along is a memorial to the Korean War, and this is an interesting statue dedicated to “the universal soldier”. It is a solid block, with the silhouette of a soldier cut out of it, and the flags of many nations shown below.

And then further along still, a play area, with musical stones that a youngster was jumping on - free and abandoned and having a fun time - just like we should all do on this bright day in the land of the free.

Monday, 9 March 2009

Smarter than a sheep...

So we landed, and I managed to get near the head of the queue for immigration - this face of America is always different - I've been treated with apparent suspicion, welcomed with a real smile, engaged in a long conversation about losing weight and keeping it off - and everything in between - today we were "professional" I'd say. The answer to how long I’m staying is met with a kinda indifferent shrug when he sees it’s within the visa time, so that is OK. Then my luggage didn't take long to turn up, and I go to a guy who stamps my customs form and gives it back to me. Then I carry the form on to another person who takes the stamped form from me. I have to admit that I’ve never understood why that happens - why doesn’t the first person just keep the form - but equally, I’ve never bothered to ask!

So then before you know it I'm on my way to a taxi - and my first accent! The driver was Eastern European I'd say, and when I told him where I wanted to go he said something I didn't catch, and when he repeated it I imagined I heard "it'll be 45 blocks". Uh-ha. OK. What????? But whatever - it’s WAY more that 45 blocks to the Upper West Side, but who am I to argue with a New York cabbie. Two minutes down the road I realised - it was "45 bucks" - the fixed fair for a taxi from JFK to Manhattan. Oh!!! yea fine!!!

And then we were driving into New York, it’s about dusk and the lights are coming on, and I’m just grinning inanely - wow! I'd actually made it, and here I was - in a yellow cab going to Manhattan, and over the bridge, and through Central Park and into Broadway, and - OH! Here we are at the Hotel. So I give him his 35 bucks, and tip, and extra for the bags - but it’s just what I need to do, and it’s wonderful to be here.

I check in and the room seems OK - it is really tiny, but I remind myself about the price compared with other places. I go to look out the window, and my view is of the bottom of a light well, and another window about 20 yards away. This is not a brilliant place, but it’s got a bed and a shower that worked well after I played with it a bit. And it’s in the Upper West Side of NEW YORK, and I get to stay here - how cool is that.


(A room with a view!)

I walked a couple of blocks that evening, and went to a “Chinese Spanish” restaurant - more accents!!! I’ve been to Chinese Restaurants in Edinburgh and I thought that combination of Scottish and Chinese was strange enough - but when I ordered my food, I honestly had no idea what the waiter was asking me. I eventually guessed he was asking if I wanted white rice - and he seemed happy enough with my affirmative answer - and I did get white rice - but I’ve no real idea if that is what he asked.

And I heard a phrase used I’m not used to - the people on the next table asked to “get this wrapped” - as in take the rest to go - interestingly I’d just been talking to someone recently who mentioned that usage, and there it was being used!!


(Just another NY Street)

The next day is a Sunday, and although it's supposed to be light outside the view from my window is still gloomy, so I can’t wait to get outside for breakfast. And there, just down the street, is that archetypal thing the New York Diner. I go in with my paper, sit at the counter and have coffee and order my breakfast. And once more need to pinch myself - I'm really doing this, I’m really here. Am I a tourist? A traveller? What I really want to be is just another diner in the diner - and that is what it seems I am.

I have decided to go to a church that is not far from my hotel, and I have a while after breakfast, so go for a short walk - but then find out that my stomach is not too good, and have to make a dash back to the hotel to use the bathroom in my room. Then I go to a pharmacy and get some appropriate tablets, so all this means I arrive at the church 5 minutes after the start of the service. As I approach the church door someone else is also arriving, a regular I assume, and they smiled and held the door - who says New Yorkers are unfriendly?


(A friendly church)

The service was - well, light hearted is the best expression I can give. There were a number of people doing the readings, and a small choir up front singing hymns. The Gospel reading was from John about “anyone who does not enter the sheepfold by the gate but climbs in by another way is a thief and a bandit”. The sermon started with the preacher saying that he wanted to get some sheep to help with the story, but they were too dumb and would poop all over the carpet (yes, that was the expression he used). Then he thought about using a projector, but it would not be bright enough to be seen. So - he said -What’s smarter than a sheep, and brighter than a projector?

I’m sitting there not really having any idea where this is going - but then someone calls out “I am!” so they get to volunteer to be sheep:). And so we get an interactive story about sheep pens (also a group of people linking arms) and sheep dogs, and bandits - in fact a lot of the congregation are up by the pulpit by the end of the sermon!

And the people who did this were smiling and bright - and really volunteered without being coxed - in my UK experience this is always a totally cringe making experience to do this sort of thing, but somehow here, with this set of people, it worked, it was fun, and helped with the message the preacher was giving.

And as part of the service, they ask any visitors to stand and introduce themselves - and much to my surprise I did so! And they welcomed me and the other visitors and I felt quite at home. The next odd thing - the row I was sitting at, having arrived late and just sat anywhere, there was one other person sitting at the other end, and they were visitors from the UK too!


(Signs of Spring)

The rest of the day I don’t do much - I walked a few blocks, and then had a sleep to get acclimatised to the change in time zone. That evening I walked down Broadway and stopped at a place called Cleopatra’s Needle for dinner - not particularly Egyptian, but with a Greek influence, and quite up market - again I get to sit at the bar to eat. And then the live music starts - I hadn’t realised there was any in this place! So I get another drink and just sit and listen and enjoy my time - I don’t need to rush - I have another 88 days yet before I need to rush. For this evening I can play a New Yorker kicking back on a Sunday evening. The difference being that tomorrow I’m going to be a real tourist and visit the Statue of Liberty!

Friday, 6 March 2009

Departing & Arriving



Travelling is always an experience.

It was on a cool April day that I set out from North East London on my adventure. The first part of the journey was the slowest and most uncomfortable - being dropped at the tube station I had to negotiate the automatic barriers pulling a suitcase on wheels, carrying a backpack, holding my coat and trying to use the tickets to keep the barriers open long enough.

After that, most things seemed simple.

For those not used to travelling in London, it’s sometimes difficult to comprehend the correlation between distance and time. My destination - Heathrow airport - is less than 30 miles away, but it will take me over 2 hours to get there. Not that there isn’t plenty of public transport in London - there is! But it takes all the time because of the many lines and many stations that are needed to get anywhere. My trip is relatively easy with just one change of tube train, and so I settle down on the Central line to start my journey. The connection at Holborn is OK, but involves pulling my suitcase up and down stairs to get to the Piccadilly line; the Victorian builders of this network did not seem to believe in ramps or slopes - nothing as easy as that for them!! So today I have to haul cases up and down the stairs, much to my, and other passengers, frustration.

And then to Heathrow, and the long walk that you always have there. Check in and passport control go easily, and then I get to go to the BA lounge - one perk of having been a business traveller for a number of years is a Gold Card that lets me in there - although my current work-free state will mean that this doesn’t last long.

I sit by an indoor fountain and have a drink - and think about the time ahead - 3 months - well, 89 days - of being in the USA - of some travel, and some staying still, of adventure and excitement, of contemplation and thought. I’m not sure who the person leaving really is, and I suspect that the person coming back will be very different.

But I have little time for introspection, as the normal “hurry up to wait” business of travel means I need to go and rush to the gate, so that I can wait there again. And then I am on the plane - I chose an outside of 3 seat on the right of the aircraft. I really prefer to have a window seat, and that really works well if you get at least one spare seat next to you. But I’ve been on some awful transatlantic flights where I’ve been cramped in next to 2 people who seem to use up all the air, so I think that an outside seat gives me a better option. As it turns out, the middle seat next to me is unoccupied, which gives me and the person in the far seat some room to stretch out.

I do the thing we are told to do, of putting my watch to the time of the place we are to arrive at, which means it’s now early morning again, and my feeling of hunger should be for breakfast, rather than lunch. But it will be a while till any food is provided, and so I sit and look at what films there are going to be shown.

There is very little delay in our take off, and soon we are in the air, and the service begins - first I say yes to a drink (diet coke). I have ordered a “low calorie” meal - what this normally means is I get the same as everyone else, but less fatty stuff and more salad - it also means I get the food first before the other people, and I’m not sure if this is good or bad, but it sure makes me feel the odd one out. In any case I get lunch/breakfast (depending on which time zone I choose to be in), say yes to another drink (a glass of wine) no to coffee, no to another glass of wine, no to duty free - and then, following that excitement, we are left to contemplate the 6 remaining hours of the journey... what to do?

It is always a struggle for me to know how to occupy myself on these long flights. There are options; to watch one of the many movies they show, listen to music, sleep, read, stare vacantly out the window or into the middle distance (that is one of my favourites). There is also the pastime I hear others using of shouting at children or continually whining - I’ve never tried these myself, but given enough flights I might.

The sleeping option is what I logically think I should do, so I put on my eye shades to keep out the light, headphones to keep out the noise, and pull a blanket over myself to keep warm. And I fall into a deep and pleasant sleep for what feels like hours, only when I wake and check my watch, it’s actually only five minutes later.

So, with the sleeping thing not working, I decide to watch a movie - they have quite a selection of new and old movies, which seem really good and interesting to watch. The only trouble is I’m on a plane - I get to watch it on a tiny individual screen with bad resolution, and listen through a cheap headset where I alternate between having it so loud that it hurts my ears, or so low I can’t actually make out what is being said. Nevertheless, I do watch a film. At least, I put it on, and adjust the volume to barely understandable, but find myself drifting off in a reverie, and not actually concentrating enough to even remember the title of the film, much less the plot.

Eventually I give this up, and put on the travelling map on the screen, I actually like this a lot - watching our slow, slow progress out over the Atlantic, skirting Greenland, and seeing that our course will take us over Canada before getting to the eastern seaboard of the USA. It’s constant flicking between the maps, the outside temperature and our height, the time in the UK and the US, our remaining flying time and expected time of arrival, and then back to the maps again is relentless and hypnotic, but even that pails after a while, and there are still hours to go

So I get out a book to read, but that hurts my eyes and my brain, and I eventually give that up too, and go back to trying to sleep and - the one that always works! - staring aimlessly into the middle distance. The time goes by slowly, but it goes by.

And suddenly there is bustle and activity again, as we get closer to landing, and they serve food once more!! This time a “snack” which I could count as a kind of lunch/dinner - on these transit days it’s difficult to work out which meal you are eating. We get to fill out immigration forms, and just generally hurry to wait again until that blessed moment when we touch down.

And then once again, the miracle of travel has happened, and I’m about to step out into a new adventure, in a new city, in a new country.