Where are the sailors?

I’m on my way to Chicago’s famous Navy Pier, and the route from my hotel looks simple on the map - along Michigan, cross the Chicago River, and then a right to Grand, which leads to the pier. Indeed it probably would have been simple if I’d followed that route, instead of following my instincts and deciding that a walk along the bank of the River would be nicer. And it was a nice walk - just a long one, with a lot of turning back when I got to dead ends; eventually, even nice architecture and river views pail when your dogs are barking.


(Navy Pier entrance)

But I get there eventually, and there is a kiosk for the open top bus tour people - so I stop and get a pass for that, which comes with a free tee shirt and a book of discount vouchers. The shirt is interesting; I’d assumed that anything given away by a tour company would make me into a walking bill-board, or at least have their logo prominently displayed. In fact, these have a design of a building on the front, and on the back it says that this is the Jay Pritzker Pavilion in Millennium Park - very nice!


(Looking back to land)

Having walked this far, I walk some more and out onto the pier itself. It is another blustery day, and before long the rain comes sweeping in and I take refuse inside. Here I try on my rain coat - and it’s not the most elegant thing I’ve ever worn, but it will keep me dry.


(A wet Navy Pier and Chicago Skyline)

Going further down the pier, I see a bus with a face looking at me; no, I'm not that mad, it is a promotion for toilet tissue, themed around being “kind to your behind”. They give out vouchers, but also invite you in to have a massage - although I’m not sure I totally see the connection, a free massage is not to be turned down, so I take them up on the offer.


(A “soft and comforting” bus)

Then on to the end of the pier, and a hazy view out across Lake Michigan. Out here, on this wet and windy early spring day it’s easy to believe that I’m really on my own out here, and my only companions are some nesting birds, who seem surprised to see a person way out here.


(At the end of the pier)

Back inside the buildings I get to peek into the grand “family pavilion”, closed at the time I visited, and to look round the many shops and exhibitions there are. It’s odd sometimes what you see where - and here there is an exhibition of stained glass, very pretty, but I don’t see the connection.


(Looking out to the lake)

You can get boat rides from the pier, and on a whim I get a ticket for the “skyline” tour - a short ride that just goes out into the lake to allow a different view of the Chicago Skyline. This is exciting - but very VERY windy, to the extent that I’m actually glad this is only a 30 minute cruise.


(on Lake Michigan)

I like Navy Pier, and go back a few times, but get the bus there and back for the rest of the occasions. I make a particular point of going back one evening to see the funfair lit up and working. It’s still off season, and so not that many people are about, but it’s exciting and I decide to ignore my fear of heights and go on the Ferris Wheel. This is an experience - it is in continual motion, and so you get on and sit down as it moves by - and then off you go up and out over the water. They tell me it takes 7 minutes - but the strange thing is it seems timeless - suddenly from the noise of the funfair you’re in the inky blackness of a windy Chicago night, with just the noise of the Wheel turning for company.


(The Ferris Wheel at night)

I like this sort of place - I think it’s the combination of water and land - the not quite knowing which this is part of. Navy Pier is certainly one of my favourites.

A City lives up to its reputation

I arrive at Chicago Union Station around mid-day, got my bags off the train, and eventually found my way out of the building - every place I go I have to try to work out the way their particular signage works, plus I don’t know the things that are obvious to a resident.

But soon I’m outside and quickly find out just why this is called “the windy city” - all the time I’m there it seems to be a gale force wind. It’s not far to my Hotel, but walking through a busy city at lunch time pulling a suitcase and carrying a backpack is not that easy. The first thing I see as I cross the Chicago River is one of the bridges opening to let a boat through, so I stop and watch like the tourist that I am.


(Chicago River traffic)

This allows me to stop and see how the buildings here are right on the river, and it’s an interesting contrast between the ultra modern office blocks, and the older, more solid bridge. But it’s too windy to stay here long - plus being annoying to those business people who want to get on with working - so I move on am soon walking into “the Loop” - that area of down town that is circled by the elevated railway. My Hotel is just the other side of the Loop on East Harrison, and I manage to find it without too many wrong turns. I book in and get a nice room on the 11th floor with a small kitchen and lots of space - and with a view across the street to a parking garage. The phone rings as I’m looking round, and it’s reception to ask if everything is OK - I say that I like the room, but have they got one with a view that is worth looking at? Seems not, but it IS a nice room, and at least I can see more than my New York Hotel!

After some food and a rest, I really want to try the elevated railway system - The EL - so go down to the station, get a ticket and join a train - by now it’s after 4 and the trains are crowded, so I need to stand, but this is fine actually as you get better views that way. I get off at Merchandise Mart to investigate this building, and the first shop I see is a kitchen goods store - so I go investigate!

After a while of browsing, I’m asked if I’m there for the cooking demonstration - I admit I’m not, but ask if it would be a good idea to go. It turns out the shop - along with them all in the Mall - is about to close to the public, but that they are opening to a special demonstration, as it’s the start of the “Artopolis Art Show” and tonight is the International Antiques Fair preview party - all the great and good are going to be here for the opening at 6pm, and a number of the stores are putting on special events. But not open for normal browsers like me!

Since I’m there, I start to walk along looking at the shop fronts, and notice that more and more people in formal ware are arriving all the time - guests for the opening I assume. There are areas where you need to show a guest pass to get in, but the main areas appear to be open to the public, so I carry on walking. Soon, I get to a very crowded area, where there is a drinks reception being held, I think it’d be really easy to just grab a drink from a passing waiter and join in - but my travel clothes do not seem to fit in well with the rest of the guests, so I decide to beat a retreat.

Back outside I trace my way back to the station I arrived at - but it’s an exit only, and I can’t get in that way. A friendly local tries to direct me to an entrance, but we do have some communication difficulties, as he is Chinese and I’m English! The entrance is actually back in the Mart building, so I go back the way I came. It’s started to rain, and I stop on the way back to the hotel and buy a rollup plastic rain coat - it’s way too windy for an umbrella, and way too wet not to have any protection from the rain.

So that’s enough for one day - found the hotel - used Mass Transit - got windswept and wet - and had a fantastic day!

To travel, hopefully

When I was planning my trip to America, I had this romantic notion of doing a lot of travel on Amtrak - visions of seeing the sun rise over the plains; of craggy mountain passes; of eating dinner and watching the ocean go past.

Then I found out about the time and the cost, so most of my travel was by plane, but I did do a couple of Train trips.

My first Amtrak experience was when I was getting the train to Chicago, and to get the best (that is cheapest) ticket, I was up at 3.30am and made my way to the station to join the dozen or so sleepy people waiting for the train to be ready. I'm used to UK trains, where you walk along a platform, and step nicely across into the train - if you have luggage you just roll it over into the train, as we've on the same level as the carriage floor. But not so here - I walked along at wheel height, which is really allows you to see the size of the machine you're just about to try to climb into. And "try" is a good expression, when you have a wheeled suitcase and a bag over your shoulder - as I lift the suitcase, the bag falls off my shoulder and before you know it everything is jammed in the door. But I get help and stow the bigger bag on the lower level, before climbing more steps to the carriage proper. Getting a seat I have the strangest sensation - I want to put on a seat belt!! I do this so instinctively in cars and on planes that I feel somehow strange to be sitting without buckling up! Isn't it odd how something becomes so ingrained in us, that we only notice its absence.

We head out slowly at first - maybe a speed restriction on leaving a big city? - and then we are out and racing along through the dark early morning, and the lights are dimmed to let us sleep. But a lot of it isn't dark out there, I am amazed how many lights I can see, even on the apparently empty plains we are travelling through, you will see a light here and there from solitary buildings, the lights of cars on the roads, and then the occasional town with its street lights and road signs make for a sudden oasis of lights in the middle of the ocean of dark.

They kept the lights dimmed until something like 7am, and there were no announcements either, although we made a few stops. But 7 was the official wake-up time I guess, and the lights went on, and we were all welcomed and from then on we were told what stops we were coming to.


(passing a town)

I did doze on and off, and can't say I actually saw daybreak, but pretty soon it's kinda light, and I feel the need for breakfast, so go along to the "cafe". This is run by one of the most wide awake and outgoing people I think I've ever met! She tells me all about the great things I can do in Chicago, which is her home town, and is so bright and chatty and - well OK, I'll say it - loud:) that it really wakes me up as much to just talk to her as to have the coffee she serves!


(some freight cars, on their sides - why?)

We pick up more people at the stops along the way - the stops are amazingly brief actually and people must be really attuned to getting up and onto the train - we seem to simply pause at most places, but still people get on and off. Never do we get really crowded, but I'd say 75% of the seats were taken by the time we arrive.

We had started out really well - left on time and scooting along fine - but then we started to have delays - we went through sidings at one point, and we had to stop at each crossing, the guard would have to get out and ensure there were no people on the crossing, and then we'd go on. And we got stuck behind other trains and ... well there were many announcements, and we ended up 40 minutes late arriving. But somehow, that was not as frustrating as it is with planes - I think that because I was not restricted in a tiny space, and could still get up and move around if I wanted - at one point, I even went to my luggage and got out my laptop and played a computer game - not something it'd be possible to do whilst stuck on an airport runway.

But my lasting impression of that trip is of the steward in the cafe and her announcement that "we will be closing in 20 minutes, so come see me if you want to get coffee or food, or just to have a talk with me" :)

I also left Chicago by train, and here I was actually able to see the Illinois countryside more as we sped past it. Once again the towns came and went, each one seemingly with it’s store and gas station right there on main street. But the main impression of Illinois from the train is of the space and the sky - a storm developed and passed us as we travelled, and the sky went on forever.


(The Horizon goes on and on)


(and on and on)

My diversion for this trip was when I had lunch in the restaurant car - a really nice experience, and got to share my table with a youngster who was travelling all the way from New York way down to New Orleans to visit family. He had a sleeper and was getting all his meals on the train - what an adventure for the kid! He was a really charming young man, and as well as being interested in my trip, was happy to share about his own life and his family. At one point when we were ordering he asked about the vegetables being served - he knew how important fresh vegetables were, and he wanted to make sure there were going to be some:)


(In the observatory car)

Travelling on Amtrak give you a new view of the world, one you don’t get from plane or a car - and isn’t the journey part of the reason for going anyway?

On top of the world

Can you go to New York without going to the Empire State Building? Well, very easily! But the tourist in me wanted to go, so I could say I’d been :)


(A solid Building...)

From street level, this is a seriously solid looking building, and gives the appearance of being fat and squat. But then you look up, and it narrows and zooms up into the blue sky.


(...that sours into the sky)

I made my way along 34th Street and jostled with the people going about their normal business. The bottom of the tower is being developed as I was there, and is surrounded by scaffolding, and although I turn onto 5th Avenue correctly, I actually missed the entrance at first, and had to double back on myself. But then I do find the way in, and walk down the ornate entrance way, and then into the queue for the inevitable security checks. Then I queue for the elevator - work is underway here too, and the area is screened off by wooden boarding. This is not a busy day, but still the line for the elevator takes about 15 minutes. But then we are in the elevator and up to the 80th floor. Here we get out, and have to queue again for the elevator to the 86th floor. As I’m queuing, an attendant tells us we can choose to use the stairs if we don’t want to wait. This is too good an opportunity to miss, so I take them, and so can honestly say that I climbed the stairs to the top of the Empire State!

And so, a bit breathless but undaunted, I emerge into the sun in the viewing gallery. Now I have this thing about heights - I found I was afraid of them when I emerged onto the top of St. Paul’s Cathedral one day, and had to cling onto the wall with fear. But this sort of height - even though it’s way higher than that is not frightening - and I’ve no idea why!


(A view from the 86th floor)

The day is bright and clear, and the views are sharp way out to the horizon, and is it my imagination, or can you see the curve of the earth from up here? I walk round the enclosed area, and then out and round the open area - and man it is cold out here! But it’s eternally fascinating to be to see things from this height - almost like being in a plane, but with more perspective and closer up and personal. We get a great view of the building which I think is my favourite one in New York in terms of looks - the Chrysler Building


(The Chrysler Building from the Empire State)

Looking out gives one a sense of space and light - but looking down is a totally different experience - this is more about how close together things are, and how high we really are.


(In the shadow of the Empire State)


(Are YOU happy?)

And then again, just when you are feeling at peace with the world, and part of it all, and are just lining up one more photograph, when someone else really needs that particular view too right this second....


(I need that shot, and I need it NOW)

And then the queues to go down and the crush and harrying to wait. And I wouldn't have wanted to miss that experience - maybe on another trip I could do it at night which would be totally different, I'm sure. But for now I'm happy to say I've done the Empire State experience, and actively enjoyed it:)

A tail of four corners

I like to walk. And when I walk I notice things.

So here I am staying in New York in the spring of 2008, and I just walk the streets randomly, and then I find The Perfect Intersection. It's just another place where two streets cross, but this particular crossing produces 4 very different corners.



The Church.
On the first corner stands an old and impressive church building - The Church of the Holy Name. In the 1800's they knew that this was what a church should look like - full of arches and pulling your eye up skywards, it was constructed as an exultation to God. The architecture screams that it is a church building - what else could it be?



The Bank?
Opposite the church is another building that shouts out why it was built. The solid upright stance and pillars show that wealth and stability were the main things on the minds of the people building it. Of course, appearances can be deceptive - although built as a bank, it's now a Pharmacy.



The Pharmacy?
The third corner has a oddly dated look that the previous two - although older - did not. A late 20th century built tower, with a retail outlet at the bottom. A local tells me that the shop was originally a pharmacy, and I can see how that would have fitted in with the architects view of the use of his design. However, in a strange twist to the way buildings are used, it now operates as a bank.

The Red Brick
To me, the red brick apartment block is the architecture that really defines Manhattan, and here we see one, complete with store at street level. And that store was a pizzeria, complete with ATM for those who didn't want to cross the street to the bank

I don't think you could get 4 more diverse looks and feels - and usages! on any street corner, but there it was. And in the background you can see even more styles, showing the real melting pot that is New York, NY.

(Pictures taken 15 April 2008 at the intersection of Amsterdam and 96th, New York.)

On top of the bus

One of the nicest things to do in a city is to go on an open top bus ride. It’s also the best way to get overheated/cold/sunburned/wet/car fumes/dust in your eyes and whatever else the weather and the city in question can throw at you, but even so it’s a fun thing to do. This is about 3 rides I did in New York city.

I had pre-booked a ticket - there is little point in doing this, but I’d done it anyway - and went to the office of the coach company that was just off Times Square. There are a number of routes and companies, but I’d chosen one company, and paid for a ticket that would let me on and off on the Uptown and Downtown loops, and also on a “night” tour - actually, just about dusk time - but more of that later.

I actually collected my ticket the day I’d already been to Liberty Island, so it was getting late in the day, and I chose to go on the uptown loop, which would go nearer to my Hotel for when I was finished. The tour started off really slowly - New York traffic and road works meant that in the first 20 minutes of the trip we travelled only about six blocks. After a while, however, we got going at a better rate, and the tour guide was doing his job well - a native New Yorker, he told us that like many of his fellows he didn’t have a car, as there was no point in the crowded City - too expensive and easier to get around on the busses and subway.


(Central Park)

Our route took us up the West side of Central Park, and from the top of a bus, the park seems much smaller than when you’re in it - maybe that is just because you’re more aware of the surrounding buildings. Carrying on up Manhattan we come to the Riverside Park, and views of the George Washington Bridge and across the Hudson River to New Jersey - and the expected comments from our guide:)


(Washington Bridge in the distance)

Coming round in a kind of loop at that point, we find ourselves under the approach to the George Washington Bridge, down to the waters edge, and then up on the backbone of the island and suddenly looking down onto the subway tracks - this is disconcerting and difficult for me to work out what direction was are actually going in! The guide tells us about Harlem - his home is nearby where we are driving, and he has good stories to tell of the neighbourhood.


(Under the Washington Bridge)

Suddenly - and it as sudden as crossing an intersection - we are out of the area where normal people live, and into the exclusive and stunningly expensive East Side of Central Park. As we crawl along 5th Avenue we see the building of the Rich and Famous, and lots of Museums, which our Guide tells us are all closed or closing for the evening. Rounding the Park we start to travel back to Times Square, and I forget that I was going to get off nearer my Hotel, so in the end decide to carry on the the end of the route, and visit Times Square itself.


(Times Square)

Times Square is noisy, crowded, and full of advertisements and people. It’s fun just to be there and walk up and down, but it’s also the place I had the worse food item ever - a hot dog from a street vender which was totally tasteless and nothing - but at least I tried it!

I take the Downtown loop earlier the next day - this again means going to Times Square first on the subway and then waiting in the cool but sunny weather for the tour to begin. Our route takes us through the Square and the Theatre district, and along 34th Street past the Empire State building. From ground level it’s difficult to pick out that it is a particularly tall building, and it’s not (in my opinion at any rate) the most attractive building - the Chrysler building - with its sleek art deco look has to be one of my favourite buildings.


(Midtown view)

Carrying on through Greenwich Village and China Town we pass near to Ground Zero, the site of the World Trade Center. As we turn one corner, we see one of the many tributes around here - a fence full of tiles of many nations in memory of those who died.



The route takes us out to Battery Park, and a few glimpses of the Statue of Liberty out in the bay, before turning back up the island and near the start of the Brooklyn and Manhattan bridges. We go past the United Nations building, and I was hoping to be more impressed than I was - well, it IS just a building, after all! Then back to the south of Central park, and so to Times Square once again


(Times Square)

The third bus trip I took was the “night tour”, although as I got it at 6pm, it was more an “evening” tour. This bus had the front of the area covered with a clear roof - which made it less windy, but more difficult to take photos. We set off again through the financial district, the Village and China town, but this time went over the Manhattan Bridge into Brooklyn. It is again very busy with traffic, but as the sun goes down, we get some pretty views of the Manhattan skyline.


(Manhattan from Brooklyn)

As we come back over the Manhattan Bridge the sun is really setting the western sky alight, and the colours are we cross the bridge makes me thankful that I can be here in this amazing city to see it.


(Crossing back into Manhattan at sunset)

Looking for the stars

Where I’m staying in New York is really near the top end of Central Park, and I’m going to explore it and see what there is to see. So this morning I set out after breakfast (at the Diner again - I’m going to have to watch that!!) and this is another cool, bright spring morning - ideal for a walk in the park!


(Central Park reservoir)

My first view as I cross the road and enter the park is of the reservoir - the first of many pieces of water in the Park and as I stand to take pictures, I’m passed by a jogger - there are also a lot of them in the Park!


(A Castle? In Central Park?)

Walking further along, I see in the distance a castle - yea - I thought that was odd too!!! Actually this is the “Belvedere Tower”, a lookout tower built in the late 1800’s, but now a meteorological observatory, and tourist attraction. The sighting of the tower shows a lot about the island of Manhattan's foundations - the hard bedrock which juts out from the land, and give the island its distinctive geology. Here there is a natural high spot, and the “castle” is built on the top. As I get nearer, I see that there is even a “moat”! Well, in reality, a small area of water called “Turtle Pond”. The sign here says it’s a quiet zone, March to November, 11am to dusk. So, am I to assume that it gets louder after dark? I’m not brave/foolish enough to want to come back in the dark to find out!


(Belvedere Tower)

From the top of the tower you get more neat views over the park - for such an overbuilt city, this part of the island give us space to breath. It’s also a place where it’s nice to bring kids, so my quiet time does not last long!


(Across the park)

From here I walk on further down the park, past a building called the Swedish Cottage Marionette Theatre, and along tree-lined walkways full of joggers. It’s early spring, and some trees are still just bare branches, with others in full blossom. This and the water that is everywhere gives the immediate area a feel of real countryside, but you only have to lift your eyes to see the buildings that surround the Park. As you walk there are constant surprises - round each corner there is a different view, and it makes the place have a unique feel - somewhere between crowded in by the buildings, and having open space and air.


(Spring is sprung)

As well as this wilder side of the park, there are also a lot of formal areas, and as I walk around a lake I come to a formal fountain with sweeping steps leading up to a Terrace - another 19th century piece of ornamentation that the modern New Yorkers take full advantage of. Around here are also a lot of sculptures and then there is sign I just have to follow - Strawberry Fields! This is a memorial to John Lennon - a circle in the ground with “Imagine” shown in the centre, and red and yellow roses arranged around it. People were coming to look and write on the books left there for that purpose, And this is what one said; “JOHN - always said flower power didn’t work START AGAIN!”. Hmmmmmm


(Strawberry Fields)

From here on the west of the park I walk over to the east side, and round another, smaller boating lake, and some more whimsical statuary - a larger-than-life statue of Alice-in-Wonderland, sitting on a huge mushroom, playing with her cat, while the Hatter and the March Hare close by - and any number of real children amusing themselves by climbing all over it! Also here is a bronze of Hans Christian Andersen - and I like this one as he is sitting reading, with a bronze duck looking up quizzically at him!


(Hans Christian Andersen - and duck!)

As we are now over on the east side of the park, we are next to the really expensive apartments, with views of the park. Not to miss any opportunity to make a buck - there are also telescopes set up so that we can look into the expensive apartments! I forgo that experience, but find it interesting that it’s just there and accepted.


(Looking for the stars)

I’ve mentioned the joggers, but on the roads there are also people on bikes, and as I am about to cross over to the Rumsey Playfields, I’m passed by someone on a unicycle - now that is not something you see that much in many other cities! There are a few people playing ball, but mostly the area is not used too much this midweek daytime. I am impressed, though, by what is called the Summer Stage - but looks to all the world like a flying saucer just about to land! Just below this is an area of bark covered ground with small plaques in between the trees. I then see the main sign for this area - it is a memorial “To our valiant brothers who died in the service of our country in World War 1. Knights of Pythias - State of New York”


(A flying saucer?)

The feel of the park changes again as I carry on along a paved, tree lined avenue to another building, and as I approach, I hear what sounds like fair-ground music being played. Now, who would have thought that? It’s a carousel!


(Central Park carousel)

I’m nearing the other end of the park now, and here there is a playground and more of the open rock formations, with people sitting on top of them - now that must be uncomfortable!

I’ve been walking for a long time, and by now I’m really foot weary, so I find a place to buy a cup of coffee, and sit, watch people come and go for a while, and think about the Central Park that I’ve just experienced.


(A formal park)

City parks are all different, but Central Park is lots of different parks all in one, with formal, “wild” and fun areas. There is a lot of open space and water and wild-life, but never do we get to forget we’re in a busy city - even on this mid week early spring day there are a lot of people around. And everywhere you go the New York sky line is a constant companion. I’ve walked the length of the park, but I still feel that there is more to see and do here. But for now I’m walked out, and will just enjoy the sun on my face and the coffee in front of me.

Coffee in a can

(Street sign in NY)

It’s Monday morning, and I leave the hotel to join the New Yorkers at breakfast in the Diner. This is getting to be easy already, and I sit at the bar and drink coffee and read the paper as my eggs are cooked. Although I’m not off to work like most of the people here, I will be joining some of them soon on the subway - my very first New York Subway trip.

The first strange thing I find about the subway is how close to the surface it is - it seems you only go a few steps down and you’re on the platform. I struggle a bit with the ticket machine, but only because it’s new to me, and soon get my ticket, and I’m on the platform and waiting for the train along with a mixed group of city dwellers. And I feel strangely at home - yes it’s all different, the trains are different and the people talk in strange accents - but it doesn’t feel at all threatening. In fact, I feel quite at home here in the hustle bustle of the subway. I get the train and actually find a seat as I start the journey down from 86th Street to South Ferry.


(The island in the distance)

Emerging blinking into the bright and windy day at South Ferry, I’m disoriented and walk round for a while looking for the ferry - no, not the Staten Island Ferry, although that looks a nice trip, but the one that will take me to Liberty Island. When I find it I see that there is a long queue but my pre-booked tickets get me to mid way along the line. There is a guy there entertaining the people with one of those metal steel band drums - chatting to the queue and playing snatches of songs appropriate to the people in line. We move slowly, first snaking back and forward along the shoreline, where we get pretty views out over the water, and then inside for security checks and more queuing. One boat leaves as I watch, but another ties up and we’re soon on board. My choice is to stand by the railing on the top deck - a good place to see things, but also probably the coldest place ever to stand!


(A picture perfect day on Liberty Island)

The boat gets steadily more full - there are so many people of all nationalities here - again, many accents! But eventually we are full, and head off - it is blustery out here but sunny, and there are a lot of us on deck cameras in hand. Slowly the island grows bigger and we get to cruse round it, and see the Statue for all sides before landing. It takes quite a few minutes for us all to disembark, but then we are walking towards the monument - it’s real, I’m actually here!


(Manhattan across the bay)

The first thing I do is go to the Visitors Centre to collect an audio tour, and then it is out to commence the tour round the island, hearing about its history and construction. Some of this I’ve known, and some I’ve now forgotten - in advance I always think that these audio tours are a Good Idea, and sometimes they are, but often they either tell you what you can see for yourself, or go into such detail that only the most ardent student would in interested. This tour veers on the side of too little information, but generally is good on guiding me around. I guess I’ve never though about the island itself - but the grounds are neatly trimmed, and there are some statues of the people who made the monument possible. And it is an island in the middle of a bay, so it’s surrounded by sea birds and the actual water lapping on the shore is attractive too. But in the end, the point of coming here is the statue herself. And she really IS impressive close up - I walk around and take photos from every angle - even a close up that works really well.


(Lady Liberty)

When I visit, the viewing gallery way up at the top of the statue is not open, but you can go into the base of the statue and view this, and the museum. However, you need to book in advance, and when I’d tried a month before all the dates were already fully booked. Even so, just walking round the base of Liberty on this cool spring morning makes me feel blessed to be able to be here, and to admit to being a tourist. I walk round twice - take a lot of pictures - and then - well, that’s it really, isn’t it?


(Welcome to America!)

So I get back onto the ferry, which goes on to Ellis Island, and the museum there. This is a picture-book pretty island, with its manicured lawns and trees just coming into bloom, and even the buildings look inviting on this bright day; I’m sure this is a far cry from the impression that the early immigrants had of the place.

(Ellis Island)
This would be a fascinating place to visit for those with relatives who come to the USA via Ellis Island, however, I decide to stay on the boat, rather than explore here. The boat empties and then fills again, and we are off back to Manhattan. This time all eyes are on the skyline - iconic and seen many times on film and TV, yet being actually real against the sparkling blue sky, with the occasional white fluffy cloud making it almost too much - is this real, or is this a film? Just as we approach shore the Staten Island ferry pulls out - just like they planned it for the a shoot.

I’ve been standing all this time on the top deck, so by the time we land I am really cold, and need to just walk for a bit to warm up. It’s now around mid day, and the queue for the ferry, which I had though was long, is now enormous! It must have taken over an hour for the people at the end of the queue to get to the front. As I walk I see a hot-dog stall, and they are advertising Starbucks Coffee - this sounds a good thing to warm me up so I order one - and it’s the first time I get coffee in a can! It comes ready sweetened, which is not something I’d have asked for if I had the choice, but it does at least warm me a little. There are the normal stalls here selling tourist trap stuff - a sun-visor in the shape of the Statue’s pointed crown, and everything you could think of with “I love NY” on it.



(War Memorial and Eagle)

The area round the ferry terminals is not just for waiting - there is also a garden of remembrance for the Second World War. This is a simple but moving monument - a swooping eagle made of black marble, which is guarding eight obelisks maybe 10 feet tall, each covered with the names of those who lost their lives in the Atlantic.


(Korean War memorial)

A bit further along is a memorial to the Korean War, and this is an interesting statue dedicated to “the universal soldier”. It is a solid block, with the silhouette of a soldier cut out of it, and the flags of many nations shown below.

And then further along still, a play area, with musical stones that a youngster was jumping on - free and abandoned and having a fun time - just like we should all do on this bright day in the land of the free.